Scott and Connie pursue a new course. Go now, go cheap. So we shed our belongings, simplified our lives, saved up a little money, and started learning Spanish. After four years cruising Mexico we decided to bring Traveler to the Pacific Northwest. We crossed the mighty Pacific to Hawaii first. Then after cruising Hawaii we crossed over to Alaska, then south to the Salish sea.
Off our stern quarter was a submerged rock the size of a
football field and the surge was creating huge whirlpools of cascading water, a
very scary item so close to the boat.On
the other quarter was another reef field, quiet for now.We managed to squeeze Traveler into this
marginal southern anchorage and after testing the safety of the location for a
couple of hours we decided to head to shore to see the sights.
Blue Footed Boobies
Isla Isabela is called the Galapagos of Mexico.About 20 miles off the coast, this island is
so isolated that the local bird population has no predators and no fear of
humans.The island is a breeding ground
for frigate birds and blue-footed boobies.Iguanas sun themselves along with the lizards.We had to watch our step to keep from
crunching these little crocs under our Keens.Hiking up the sparse trail we soon found ourselves in a low bush land
where each little tree was full of nesting frigate birds.The males were puffing out their bright red
throats, the females protecting their little fuzzy babies.Further uphill we came to the Booby
hatchery.These cute little guys with
their bright blue or yellow feet were marching around doing their mating dance
or sitting on a ground nest keeping their eggs warm.The trail went right through the crowd of
birds and we did our best to stay out of everyone’s way.Too close and we’d get a squawk.But everyone stayed put.There was no panic. They had no fear of
Any other place like this would have restrictions, hours,
guides, and lots of rules and regulations.Here, you are free to wander so wander we did. We heard that the government cut the budget
for management of this island and there was some volunteer activity but mostly
what we saw were fishermen and a few workers clearing foliage.Eventually the trail petered out and we did a
little bush whacking.But everywhere,
everywhere you looked there were nesting birds, mostly boobies and
Roosting Frigate birds with Traveler anchored offshore
Pelicans mobbed the local fishermen who have a camp there
and gulls and terns were massed in great numbers.The white-tailed tropic bird sailed around
the steep cliff sides with that wonderful long tail.We made our way down a cliff to the western
beach of pumice and coral and watched the waves crashing in from the west, then
we bashed our way back to the anchorage.
Dad Frigate (note red inflatable throat) protecting the nest.
Being so close to all that wildlife and having them show no
fear was an amazing experience.We came
away pretty elated about what he had experienced.Back aboard Traveler, the reef looked even
closer and our anchor chain had started wrapping itself around some rocks so we
decided to up anchor and move around to a more comfortable place.We had tied a big red float to the head of
the anchor and thought we’d have to use it to get the anchor up but we messed
with it for a little while and it came up free and we were on our way.Around the corner, to the east side of the
island next to Mona Mayor and Mona Menor we found a good spot and dropped the
hook with a safety float and settled in to watch the sun set.In the shadow of the boat, schools of fish
gathered.The smell of guano permeated
Birds, birds, everywhere!
On the back deck, wine in hand, we watched humpback whales
splashing about.One big guy kept
smacking his huge tail on the water over and over.We’d see the tail strike the water, see the
spray, then hear the loud crack.I
counted 20 in a row for this one big male.Nice.
Early to bed, we slept well and got up at 4:00 AM for our
run back to the mainland.Standing on
the back deck in darkness we could hear a whale breathing in and out with a loud scratching
sound like rubber on rock.It was so
The anchor came up easily and we stole out of the anchorage
and pointed the bow southeast steering by the stars.Red sun at sunrise greeted us as birds
fought for perch rights on the bow pulpit.Wind built finally and we sailed for a while then finished off the day
with the engine again as we found our anchorage in the beautiful quiet town of
Chacala.We’ve got three days to get to
La Cruz where Mary and Ezrah will meet us at the Marina Riviera Nayarit dinghy
dock.Our trip these last days has been
wonderful, just what we had been hoping for in this stage of our journey.We are both healthy and in great spirits,
enjoying the wonderful coast of Pacific Mexico.
The lovely bay at Chacala. Can you spot Traveler with her green hull?