Warning: This post
contains some technical nautical detail that many readers might choose to
skip. If so, just look at the pictures
and go back to surfing through your Facebook page.
I’m sitting down below in the cabin on the computer for the
first time in a week while Connie makes coleslaw. It’s 82 degrees down here and I’m in a pair
of nylon shorts and nothing else. My old
man’s rule about wearing a shirt at the dinner table has gone by the way side
as have many other of those civilized manners I was taught from youth. I’ve got a small wardrobe now consisting of
two pairs of nylon shorts and two short sleeve cotton shirts. When we take the dinghy to shore I get my
shorts wet and my shirt, if I wear one. The only reason for a shirt now is to
keep my back from getting too sunburned. Once back aboard I retrieve the second
pair of shorts that I left there from the last wet dinghy trip. So with constant salt water rinsing, my
wardrobe stays in pretty good shape and the shorts can stand up on their own.
Our last shower was in the cockpit of the boat with two
small buckets of fresh water. Connie and
I washed each others hair and backs and came away feeling all clean and shiny..
and frisky.
A flopper stopper is
a device that you lower into the water, boomed out on one side of the boat with
a long pole. The stoppers I have
consist of three bright orange wide-brimmed cones set one atop another about
two feet apart. A stout rope runs
through the three devices and comes out the bottom where there are numerous
heavy fishing weights attached. To
deploy this device you run the boom out to the side of the boat and attach this
thing at the end, lowering it down into the depths. We use the spinnaker pole deployed out the
other side for the second set of flopper stoppers. Both the boom and the spinnaker pole are held
aloft with a halyard and secured fore and aft with guy lines so the poles
cannot swing.
Note the boom out to one side and the spinnaker pole out to the other. |
At anchor the boat sometimes comes sideways to these rolling
waves. Traveler has a rounded hull shape
and she rolls easily like many single hull boats. These rolling waves can toss the plates off
the table, put your salad in your lap, or spill your precious glass of
wine. And at bedtime sleep cannot come
if you spend your time digging your fingernails into the mattress trying not to
get dumped onto the floor. The flopper
stopper is rumored to dampen the rolling effect. I say “Rumored.”
I’ve seen flopper stoppers in the marine stores that are
built like a square box where the lid opens one way but not the other, kinda
like a valve. So you can drop it into the water it will sink easily but then
when you try to pull it back up, the top of the box clamps shut and it is much
more difficult to move it upwards. The
cones do a similar thing; easy to drop down but hard to pull upward.
Traveler heading south under full gennaker with a four foot swell . |
After making our way south from Bandaras Bay we stopped in a
little anchorage at Punta Ipala. The guide book says, “ This anchorage can be
swept by waves” during periods of NW wind and swell. When we anchored the wind was light from the
northwest and the swell was coming in from the same direction. An anchored boat
usually points into the wind. Thus the
bow of the boat rose and fell with the swell and while it was a little rolly inside
the boat we were able to cook and eat and play cards just fine. Then at bed time the wind fell and the
current started to pull the boat southward.
Soon the boat pointed South and we were beam on to the rolling waves
coming out of the west. We rocked and
rolled foolishly for hours until the land breeze came in and got the boat
pointed to the east where we would be aft on to the rollers. Sea breeze during the day, land breeze at
night, is the rule down here.
After a good run south the next day we came to Bahia Chamela
where Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer, the creators of the wonderful book,
“Pacific Mexico A Cruiser’s Guidebook”, say “some northerly swell can bend
around the point and enter the anchorage.”
As usual, when I enter an anchorage, I cruise around looking for boats I
know and pretty much terrify everyone as I come much too close to their anchor
lines. We saw the sailing vessel
Mystique in there and as I scraped by his bow sprit he yelled out to watch out
for his stern anchor line as most people in the anchorage had both bow and
stern anchors deployed to keep the boats pointed out to sea and directly into
the swell.
Taking the good advice we decided to set both a bow and
stern anchor to reduce the roll. Connie
dropped the heavy main anchor, a Bruce, off the bow and I backed down on 200
foot of chain before dropping the aluminum Danforth off the stern. I then pulled forward to set the stern
anchor. But by the time I got the chain
and rope rode out we were right on top of the forward anchor. We had not set them far enough apart.
So Connie pulled up the Bruce and we pulled way, way forward
and reset it properly. When done
Traveler was facing out to sea just like all the boats in the anchorage except
one. And that evening we enjoyed
watching that one boat turn sideways to the swell and have its mast sweep great
arches in the sky as, no doubt, the contents of their cabin started working
their way down to the cabin sole. The
next morning we watched them relocate, setting out both a bow and stern anchor.
Mary introducing the flopper stopper |
Did the flopper stoppers help? We think they did. They didn’t stop the rolling but they
dampened it. Did the stern anchor
help? We think it did because it kept
the swell from setting directly on our beam.
And more importantly, it made poor traveler look much like an old
fishing boat with all sorts of things sticking out. We enjoyed the anchorage, staying two days
and had the place to ourselves the second night. Nice.
I woke this morning to a slight roll of the boat and the
sound of coconuts rolling around on the coach roof. Ezrah had harvested a half dozen in
expectation of drinking the coconut water for an electrolyte boost. Then Connie brought me in a cup of hot tea
and I got to sit in bed, drinking my tea, listening to the coconuts rolling
about and watching my nylon shorts standing up on their own on the cabin floor
where I dropped them the night before.
The marina where we are presently staying in
Barra de Navidad,Jalisco
pretty posh huh? |
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