|This is where the heater will go.|
Clear skies brought plummeting temperatures and the full moon brought extreme tides to the Swantown Marina. At a negative 3.39 foot tide, the ramp was slippery with snow and steep. From above, the boats in the marina looked like they were sitting down in a muddy hole full of ice. We had two feet under the keel and the electric heater couldn't keep the boat warmer than 58 degrees. Time for some action!
I got online.. tried to limit my time cursing at the national news... and started researching the parts I'd need to install a Dickinson solid fuel marine heater. With our budget, we could get a propane heater, a diesel heater, or a solid fuel (wood) stove from Dickinson Marine. Checking prices on forced air or hydronic heating systems freaked me out so I ditched that idea right away.
A stand-alone propane heater has a low BTU output and I've heard that propane makes the boat damp so that didn't appeal to us. The diesel heater puts out a lot of heat but it costs a lot more than the solid fuel unit, especially when you factor in the fuel pick up, diesel lines, and installation of a fuel pump and day tank. The budget alternative is the solid fuel stove, and still, it's not cheap.
|Stove, hardware, damper, stack, flu guard, deck fitting, exhaust cap, hole saw, and wall liners|
I read installation documents, watched YouTube videos, and researched before coming up with a parts list. Then I created a spreadsheet listing prices from five vendors: Fisheries Supply, Go2Marine, Defender, West Marine, and Sure Marine Service. It became apparent that the two contenders were going to be Fisheries and SMS, both in Seattle. My account at Fisheries gives me a discount and I can get free shipping on big orders. SMS has good prices, always.
Here is the breakdown:
|Dickinson Newport 00-newsf||00-newsf||1||352.26|
|Stove pipe and damper 22"||16-001||1||88.74|
|SS Pipe 24"||16-000||1||29.68|
|SS Deck Fitting, gasket, ring||16-050||1||67.67|
|SS DP exhaust cap||16-080||1||80.32|
|Flu pipe rain lid||16-200||1||21.96|
|SS Flu guard||16-030||1||60.81|
|SS Wall liner 24x12||25-000||2||72.08|
|SS Wall liner 24x12||25-000||1||37.3|
|You'll need a very small hex to tighten the arbor.|
|Scoring the teak deck.|
I recommend measuring multiple times and going on deck often so you don't screw up and cut a hole in the wrong place. As it is, I still messed it up.... but just a bit.
|Prying out the fiberglass plug.|
Prying out the plug I admired the solidness of the deck. There is a thick layer of fiberglass, then some marine plywood, then more fiberglass. These old Passports, they made them stout. Down below, I'd left the quarter inch ceiling board in so that it would catch any sawdust and glass debris. Now I began to grind through that layer with the hole saw and soon I had my finished hole. What's this? Two bare wires? Heck, I'd sawed through the DC connection to a ceiling fan. What a dufus!
Note to self: next time, peek under the ceiling board and check for wires.
|Note the thick glass top layer, the plywood center, the bottom glass layer. See the cut wires in upper right hand corner.|
|Don't let one scrap of dust get into the marine environment!|
|All that's left is the Naugahyde head liner fabric.|
Down below, I put the ceiling panel back up and screwed the collar fitting over the hole.
Once I had the shields on, Connie helped me assemble the stove pipe, the damper, and the stove all together.
|Taller than the Trump tower.|
Thanks for staying with us for this technical diversion. Tomorrow we go to a protest march at the state capitol. You know why.
Scott and Connie